and
we're back from our off the grid exploration....July 22nd – 24th: We
did not anchor in Spring Cove as it is really too shallow given the
tides. We anchored back by the condos and then headed out the morning
of the 22nd. We did fuel at the Ukee fuel dock, lots of large tires
left many black scuff marks on our boat. We will throw our fenders out
next time. Instead of heading in towards Tofino we decide that we might
as well go to Hot Springs Cove, our furthest point up the coast. We
easily anchor in Hot Springs Cove just past the anchored Bed and
Breakfast, Innchanted. There is a steady stream of fast boats and float
planes that bring folks in for the hike to the hot springs. We opt to
spend an entire day on the boat, cozy in our cockpit in blankets reading
books while it gently rains most of the day. In the evening we hike up
to the springs as the thundering herd of people come down the boardwalk
to return to Tofino. The boardwalk is 2 kilometers long and very well
done. At the end the hike is worth it as we soak our weary bones in
very nice hot pools in the rocky face at the tip of the land. There are
only two other (boat) folks there and we cannot imagine how all of the
‘tourists’ fit in the pools during the day. The pools are small hollows
in the jagged rocks and perfect for just a few folks. Each pool
towards the top of the rock fall is hotter than the last. We opt to NOT
go to the hottest pool where the hot water flows in a gentle waterfall.
Even standing in the waterfall the water appears to scald the back of
the other gentleman who has braved standing under it.
The next day we dinghy across again to the boardwalk, pay our park fee (3 loonies each) and hike about five minutes up the boardwalk. Today we come with our battery operated dremmel tool to partake of the tradition of decades…..we carve the name of our boat on a nice new cedar plank in a sunny spot on the boardwalk. Given that we are ExTerra we carve the name as you are leaving the land and heading back towards the water. On the way back we take a tour of the beautiful Innchanted. The nephew of the owner is obviously and rightfully proud as he takes us through the converted freighter. Beautiful woodwork and guest rooms are shown and he talks at length about the wonderful meals that his Uncle produces in the galley. Perhaps on a future visit we can have a nice meal aboard.
The next day we dinghy across again to the boardwalk, pay our park fee (3 loonies each) and hike about five minutes up the boardwalk. Today we come with our battery operated dremmel tool to partake of the tradition of decades…..we carve the name of our boat on a nice new cedar plank in a sunny spot on the boardwalk. Given that we are ExTerra we carve the name as you are leaving the land and heading back towards the water. On the way back we take a tour of the beautiful Innchanted. The nephew of the owner is obviously and rightfully proud as he takes us through the converted freighter. Beautiful woodwork and guest rooms are shown and he talks at length about the wonderful meals that his Uncle produces in the galley. Perhaps on a future visit we can have a nice meal aboard.
July 25th: We depart for Hootla Cootla bay and anchor by ourselves. On
the beautiful sandy beach is a group of kayakers. As we fish from the
dinghy they depart for an evening (on high tide) of exploring the small
creek. Pam hooks but does not land a very large ling cod. Carl manages
to land a 27” ling cod and we look forward to the many meals it will
provide. We watch as Eagles fight with osprey over some of the fish
carcasses we throw to them. Circumnavigating the small island in our
dinghy we find very large rock fish on the outside. The next day Carl
lands a 21” Copper Rock Fish, more thick fillets into the refer.
July 26th: We have anchored in Young Bay. One other sailboat is there, the Wild Spirit, very reclusive folks as they close up their boat and stay inside most of the time we are there. We are off to hike to Cecelia lake up the ‘trail’ as noted in the guide books. This turns out to be a couple of hours of ‘hiking’ through downed trees and overgrown shrubs on a non-existent trail. Must send an update to the 2014 guide book….but if nothing else Carl and I are intrepid (read stubborn?) in our pursuits and continue to climb our way to the lake only to find there really is no way to get into the lake to swim. We do enjoy a wonderful freshwater dunk in a nice pool in the creek on our way back. The tide has left and we have to walk our dinghy back down the creek but the water feels great!
July 26th: We have anchored in Young Bay. One other sailboat is there, the Wild Spirit, very reclusive folks as they close up their boat and stay inside most of the time we are there. We are off to hike to Cecelia lake up the ‘trail’ as noted in the guide books. This turns out to be a couple of hours of ‘hiking’ through downed trees and overgrown shrubs on a non-existent trail. Must send an update to the 2014 guide book….but if nothing else Carl and I are intrepid (read stubborn?) in our pursuits and continue to climb our way to the lake only to find there really is no way to get into the lake to swim. We do enjoy a wonderful freshwater dunk in a nice pool in the creek on our way back. The tide has left and we have to walk our dinghy back down the creek but the water feels great!
July 27th: Anchors up and on our way down Shelter Inlet to Buccante
Bay. This is our first real sailing since our all day sail with no wind
off the northern Washington coast. We sail for at least half of our
trip and then motor into a very narrow opening in the rocks. Just past
the opening the bay unfolds and is very large and nicely situated at the
bottom of rock cliffs and tall mountains. Again only one other boat is
there. These folks appear to actually enjoy their boat, sitting
outside until dusk as we do, watching seals and river otters. We had
hoped to stay here a few days but we believe there is an algae bloom so
we will not be fishing or looking for shell fish. Wonderful weather
however and very peaceful!
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