Wednesday, August 28, 2019

August 16th Alma Russell to Dodger Passage


August 16th Alma Russell to Dodger Passage

Our next anchorage is a very short trip around the corner and up into the Alma Russell Island anchorage.  A peaceful stop, with the main excitement being a small Brown Creeper  who ventures inside the boat then sets down for a rest on the deck before venturing back out.  Last year we untied the lines from B Mondo and departed at 0430 in the pitch black waters to start our trip home.  This year we leisurely take off headed for Bamfield to top off the diesel.

We of course fish along the way.  We tried for halibut again, fishing the deep flat sandy areas.  No halibut were found but Carl pulled up a very large Yellow Eye rockfish.  Since you are not allowed to keep these he put it on the “descender.”  The descender is a large hook with a big weight on it.  You hook the fish and have the weight descend the fish back to depth so that it can adjust back to the pressure.  Fish pulled from deeper water suffer a kind of “bends” much like a diver would if the diver came up too fast.  The fish fell off the first time and stayed on the surface.  An Eagle promptly swooped in and tried to haul it off but the fish was too heavy.  We practiced our man overboard drill, circled the boat and netted the fish.  Having added more weight to the descender we believe we successfully sent the big fish back to its comfortable depth.



Then it was a quick motor through all the salmon fishermen and into Bamfield.  We filled up with diesel and then tied up at the temporary dock to get a few groceries.  While there I asked the shop keeper about the obvious ongoing work on the wonderful old Bamfield Hotel building.  He said that it had been purchased out of forfeited holdings during a court case.  The new owner was one man who launched into very actively restoring the structure.  He hopes to first re-open the restaurant and then the hotel.  The shop keeper described him as efficient and laser focused on churning out good work.  Sounds like a man who knows and enjoys what he is doing.


The Bamfield Hotel was one of many purchases made by a man who was going to restore them all.  Strung along for years the residents are happy that at last, the man was brought up on money laundering charges and ended up forfeiting most of his ill-gotten properties.  A local First Nations group has purchased a few of the properties and are also in the process of restoring and opening them.  This is all good news for the community of Bamfield.  We look forward to a nice meal at the restaurant sometime in the future.

We then motor directly to our Dodger Passage anchorage and start looking for the best weather window to start our overnight ocean passage to Astoria.

August 12th – 15th Three Days in the Pinkertons


August 12th – 15th Three Days in the Pinkertons

Getting out to Barkley Sound from Ucluelet is very easy.  We listen to a “mayday” unfolding as we motor along.  While the boat in distress is located right where we will be going we do not respond to the Coast Guard as two other boats that are much closer and can get there faster have already replied.  The 27’ pleasure boat is taking on water and the engine is overheating.  We continue to listen, thankful as always, for the Coast Guard and first responders.  A Coast Guard launch is “tasked” and it is on scene about the same time as the local ferry, the Frances Barkley.  A little while later we see the M/V Frances Barkley headed to Ucluelet with the 27’ pleasure boat under tow.  The 128 foot Barkley is a purpose built ferry boat commissioned in Norway in 1958 and moved into Port Alberni in 1990.



While the rescue is ongoing we set up to fish for ling cod.  Carl lands a nice one and we head on up the Sound.  We settle into the Pinkerton Island anchorage for three nights.  We will deploy our kayaks and explore this small group of islands which are just outside of the Broken Group, a very popular destination for kayakers.

We are pleased yet surprised again at having a wonderful anchorage completely to ourselves.  The only boat that ventures through (twice) is the nice couple and their dog who slow way down so as not to rock our anchored boat.  We pass their nice little floating home on our kayak trip.  It is tucked back in a very quiet backwater further into the Pinkertons.

The Pinkertons are home to swimming bears, Osprey, Eagles and perhaps a swimming mink.  We did not get a real good photo of the small, dark furry critter as it swam past.  Our kayaking takes us past Canada geese, seals and a Solitary Sandpiper.  We search the shallow depths for sea creatures, finding mainly a variety of sea stars, crab, and clams.  We enjoy tranquil waters under sunny skies.  We put in at one of the many small, rocky islets for lunch.  Carl enjoys (?!) a refreshing dip as he slips while getting out of his kayak.  Thankful for the sun he dries off while we enjoy our lunch. 




Returning to the boat we enjoy the sunset over the bow while at the same time the nearly full moon makes an appearance over the stern, and is reflected in the anchorage waters.  A very pleasant way to end the evening.






















Tuesday, August 27, 2019

August 9th through 12th on to Ucluelet


August 9th through 12th on to Ucluelet

After a one night stay back in Ritchie Bay to refill our crab pot we head back ‘outside’ and down the coast towards Ucluelet.  We fish for halibut but have no luck although one makes off with Carl’s bait fish.  He does however catch a very nice Copper rockfish.  We see in the distance the 900 foot Ooosterdam Cruise Ship headed back south.  We also watch Wind Gypsy, our Walter’s Cove dock mate, as they mosey along on a very light breeze with their spinnaker and a variety of other sails deployed.



One of the treats along the way is another look at a number of Sunfish.  They wave one short fin as they meander back and forth on the surface, gathering warmth from the sun before they descend back down to the deeps.  We get a few photos which do not do them justice.  One is about eight feet long and gives a flip of its fin before taking its dive.





We call Kevin, the harbour master.  Although he does not take reservations he says he does have a nice easy spot for us on the south side of his new (since we’ve been here) breakwater dock.  With the help of a nice gentleman we tie up in the wind and visit awhile.  He has gone up to Prince Rupert from Vancouver and is now making his way, single handing, to Mexico.  We talk a bit about Astoria and the Columbia River Bar.  Perhaps he will put in there.  We see him off and on as we each wonder through town re-stocking whatever needs re-stocking. 



Each time we pass the main dock we look for Cam and Laura’s boat.  We first met Cam and his wife Laura when we came by land to Ucluelet, perhaps back in 2011 (?) with Pam’s sister Barb and her husband Craig.  We booked a whale watching tour with Cam and then after having a great day and picking his brain we discovered he really liked to take people salmon fishing, even though he did more whale and wildlife tours.  We booked a salmon trip with him for the next day and had a wonderfully successful day.  Since then we have gone back to visit him and Laura everytime we come to Ucluelet.  We stayed in their bed and breakfast one year and have had them to dinner on the boat.  Laura tracked us down on the dock another year to give me a hard copy of her quinoa salad that I really liked.  I now make it every year while on the boat.  We finally find both Cam and Laura at their boat and have a brief hello and visit as Cam unties the boat and takes off with another boat load of customers who will soon to be happily watching whales.  We have a nice, although short, visit with Laura before we all go our separate ways.  Another…..until we meet again, so very common with this type of cruising.


After a leisurely day of playing tourist, doing laundry, taking real showers and enjoying a variety of the small eateries in Ucluelet we untie to lines and head for Barkley Sound.

Saturday, August 10, 2019

August 8th Ahouset and Hugh


August 8th Ahouset and Hugh

We tie up at the dock at Ahouset instead of anchoring, mainly because we will just spend the night and then head back out after ‘provisioning.’  We find Hugh still behind the counter of his store and talk with him for quite awhile.  He proudly tells us that he has had this store and dock since 1955.  He explains all of the areas he built, including adding on the hotel wing and the upstairs, where he lives.  He put in the boat ways and fish processing sheds.  When we ask if the shower and laundry are still available he says “No, but you are welcome to use mine up in the house.”  We thank him kindly but opt to not impose as we know we will be in Ucluelet in a few days.

We gather our purchases which include nice steaks out of his freezer since the restaurant is not currently open.  I mention Hot Springs Cove where his Dad had the store.  He brings out his photo album and goes through it slowly, reminiscing about his time as a kid at Hot Springs.  He shows us photos of their home, the small school and numerous other buildings.  The only one still standing is one he built which currently serves as the living quarters for the park ranger.




We thoroughly enjoy the steaks which Carl bbq’s to perfect medium rare.  We read in the cockpit while Hugh relaxes on the bench outside his store.  The next morning it is the same.  We read in the cockpit over coffee while Hugh sits outside the store watching for the fuel barge.  We watch as the tug boat expertly maneuvers the fuel truck barge onto the dock just down from us.  Hugh, 83 years young, hikes on down to the dock and prepares all of his bulk tanks for loading of the fuel.

We take four books up and exchange them.  We chat with Hugh briefly before we leave.  He says he is ready to sell. “I’m tired of the store now.”  Hoping to sell the store, he tells us where we may  find him next time, which he hopes is living in Tofino, right across from the Post Office where his daughter is the Post Mistress.  We wave goodbye knowing that Ahouset will not be the same without Hugh but that life goes on.  Having committed 64 years to the store perhaps it is time for someone else to have a go at it.



August 5th – 7th Hot Springs Cove


August 5th – 7th Hot Springs Cove

As we leave Rae Basin we see Peter continuing his work on splitting cedar into usable pieces and the six lads gathered around his little beach cottage. 



Then we are a short hop to Hot Springs Cove, a favorite place of ours.  We see Tumbleweed tied to the dock as we go by on our way to the anchorage.  We anchor fairly close to the Innchanter, the anchored bed and breakfast owned by Shaun.  I phone Shaun to see if perhaps this time we can have breakfast on his beautiful boat.  He says that he is crazy full today but come on down, the coffee just went on. 

As we join Shaun and his lively large group of guests he explains to them that he likes the name of our boat, ExTerra, and asks us to explain the meaning.  “For me,” I say, “I retired from a group that was creating a database for terrestrial data for the U.S. Forest Service.  Thus I am “ExTerra.””  Carl tells them “I was a terrestrial wildlife biologist for the Forest Service, also now retired.  And of course the boat takes us “off the land” every summer so the boat is named ExTerra.” 

After enjoying coffee and conversation on Shaun’s new floating garden deck we hop back in the dinghy and head to the dock.  We visit with Tumbleweed folks, Bob and Marie and then head up for the mile and a half boardwalk hike to the hot strings.  We have waited until 7:30 to hopefully reach the springs after most of the folks who come in by fast boat and small plane.  Along the way, about 400 steps up the walk we find “our” board and Carl carves the year into the plank with his dremel tool.  We first carved the board in 2014, then 2015 and now 2019.  Hopefully it will still be in place next time we return as we hear that the walk is going to be replaced.


We then mosey on up the boardwalk and climb into the very enjoyable, just right springs.  It seems a bit colder this year as I can actually tolerate standing up under the hotter part of the springs that cascades over the rocks, a welcome, hot water shower, albeit, no soap or shampoo allowed.

We share the springs with some of Shaun’s guests and then head back down the boardwalk arriving back to the dock around dark.  We stop by and knock on Tumbleweed’s hull to let them know we will take a raincheck on the beer due to the hour, however Marie pops her head out and say “Would you like to join us for spaghetti?  We just sat down.”  What a welcome treat after missing dinner so that we could enjoy the hot springs. 

We know that we have chatted with each other a few times over the years but we have never been on each other’s boats.  It is nice to see them comfortable ensconced in their environment and we marvel at how well laid out the boat is for it’s size of 26 feet.  We talk for nearly an hour over spaghetti and invite them to dinner the next evening.  They loan us their flashlight so we can find our way back to the boat.

The following evening we have Bob and Marie over for dinner and show them our boat.  We have a very leisurely dinner and chat for a few hours finding many overlaps with them.  We each have grown kids.   They spent time with the Forest Service.  Marie was in the Peace Corps which was something we seriously considered but were never able to pull off.  After a lively, diverse discussion we say our goodbyes, knowing that we will meet again.

When we pull out in the morning Shaun comes out and yells “I really hope to have you over for breakfast next time!”  We look forward to that.



Tuesday, August 6, 2019

August 5th tour of Cougar Annie’s Garden and Peter’s cedar treasures


August 5th tour of Cougar Annie’s Garden and Peter’s cedar treasures

Friends Tom and Vicki have told us about the very interesting man Peter, who purchased the property from Annie over thirty years ago.  We take the dinghy ashore at his beach and find him completely occupied with harvesting a 30’ cedar slab that someone has dropped by for him.  With numerous landslides last year the lakes and shores are covered with such items.  We are happy to assist in what little way we can but he has the process down to a science.  Using a shake splitter that he created he makes easy work of turning out 1 inch by 8 inch by roughly 16 feet pieces of cedar that he will use as the siding and perhaps roofing of his new wood shed.



We are joined by six lads who are ending a 5 night hike around Hesquiat Peninsula.  They too lend a hand and then we all head to the house to do the paperwork for the tour.

While the books all talk about the legacy of Cougar Annie, her family and her garden there is another legacy being created that we just became a tiny slice of.  Peter and his mastery of all things wood has created truly unique structures all over the property, each stunning in their simplicity yet beauty.  The use of dead and down cedar, Pacific Yew and standing dead “grey ghosts” has resulted in cabins, meeting rooms overlooking the lake, dining hall and quaint out buildings throughout the property. 

The additional boardwalk alone is amazing as it winds its way up to the ridge and down over to Rae Lake.  The Japanese garden door that opens to the sushi ‘bar’ made out of a clear slab of Yellow Cedar nearly 4 inches thick and about 30 feet long; the Pacific Yew flooring slabs inlaid in concrete, never to crack as they dry vertically the same rate that they dry horizontally; small, cozy cabins taking advantage of the natural rock for foundation and following the contours of the rock to define the multi-level sleeping areas; the use of hand split cedar siding and roofing, and the list goes on.  All of this primarily completed by Peter with some help along the way, and definitely inspired and designed by him.

As we talk the boardwalk he explains the small hydro and water system that he installed, the areas he has had to blast and the characters who have helped him along the way.  He talks of youngsters who sit overlooking the lake and listen to him talk about steps they may take in their lives that will truly shape them.  What better place for young minds to contemplate such thoughts than sitting in a building constructed by the man in front of them from left overs and salvaged wood while overlooking a beautiful lake.

In his efforts to restore the garden he has painstakingly researched indigenous versus all the other plants that he finds and he marvels at how many species Annie actually introduced into the garden area.  He fully explains the concept of how the bog sustained the garden to this day, providing nutrients and moisture that would not occur in other natural soil settings.  All in all, a most excellent side trip for us.  Perhaps next time we come we can take the Walk of the Giants and let Peter entertain and educate us as to the ancient trees and indigenous people who have used them.

We return to the boat with full respect for this unassuming man and the unique habitat that he has sustained and enhanced.









August 5th,2019 Rae Basin Hesquiat Harbour








August 5th,2019 Rae Basin  We are truly blessed to have the time and the patience to simply sit and watch as the complete turn of the tide goes from high to low, bringing with it all kinds of shore birds.




August 4, 2019 Santa Gertrudis to Rae Basin


August 4, 2019 Santa Gertrudis to Rae Basin

Rounding Estevan is an easy ride although we thoroughly enjoyed a full day sail here last time.  This time we are only able to use the headsail for a bit.  We turn into Hesquiat Harbour and anchor inside Rae Basin at the top of the Harbour.  We have never stopped in this area before but our goal is to go find Peter and take a tour of Cougar Annie’s garden.  We land the dinghy and attempt to find the trail mentioned in one of the guide books.  After nearly two hours of crawling through brush and over logs we put the sun on our right shoulder and make our way back to the boat.  Tomorrow we will try the other approach, and land the dinghy right at Peter’s house.




Although the hike was a bust we are rewarded with three different bears.  One wanders the beach, one appears on the rocky point and the third is a real treat.  He swims in and climbs out on the rocks and climbs the solid rock slope coming our way, offering us some nice photo opportunities.





August 1st – 3rd Zeballos and Bligh Island


August 1st – 3rd   Zeballos and Bligh Island

The inside route has few anchorages so we opt to tie up to the Zeballos Small Craft Harbour float.  Having endured an entire day of rain we don our second set of raincoats to hike to road “up town.”  We purchase a (very) few supplies at the small store then continue up the road.  Since last time we were here the second small store has closed as has the closest restaurant.  We do find a nice meal at the Cedars Inn, a small accommodations establishment full of mostly kayakers.  We chat at length with a couple from Sunriver Idaho, both teachers.  He thinks he saw us anchored in the Bunsby Islands.  They have traveled here by car to simply enjoy the spectacular kayaking areas found all over this side of the island.

We slog back through the rain and stop at the dock to pay moorage.  The sign says they will open at 7:00 P.M.  Sure enough a car drives up and a lady opens the office.  “I’m covering the harbour for my Uncle,” she says.  “He has gone to Quinault to fish.  We don’t take cards here but you can mail us a check for the moorage.”  I explain to her that we can do than in about a month and she is just fine with that.

We awake to the sound of new waterfalls that have sprung up overnight, passing many as we motor on down Esperanza Inlet.  We take on diesel at the Esperanza Mission and ice cream of course.  No fresh produce today.  We have a long conversation with the skipper of the local kayak ferry boat.  He is trying to make a go of it with this enterprise as many other options have closed over the years.  Off to Tahsis Inlet, passing through Tsowwin Narrows just in front of the Uchuck III, the 138 foot converted mine sweeper that has been the cargo and ferry ship for these parts for decades.



We anchor in Bligh Cove, with a wounded Eagle on shore and an oddball sea otter all around us.  The otter is either quite fond of somersaulting or his internal gyro is off kilter.  He happily somersaults for quite some time all the way around the cove, again and again.  The wounded eagle spends his time hopping from log to rock to shore, unable to sustain enough time in flight to go to the tree tops.

After our night at anchor we take off for what we plan to be an easy day.  Alas it is not to be.  Carl notices that the boat is not running quite right so we anchor again and begin to troubleshoot.  The raw water intake is not producing enough water for the engine.  We completely clean the filter, remove and replace the main hose, and even put in a new impeller.  We take off again, still not quite right but much better until…..

You know, we have had some nice “firsts” on this trip.  First time around Cape Scott and first time around Brooks Peninsula.  We had never hoped to add our first time hitting a rock!  But we have now added that to our list.  Exiting Bligh Cove we hit a rock.  “Bloody Hell,” I swear (reading too many Bourne books lately).  Next comment, “we’re on a rising tide correct?”, since I believe we are high centered.  Carl assures me we are still moving and we turn around again to anchor.  This time it is to settle our nerves and troubleshoot again, the water line. 

We thoroughly check all over the boat inside and out for any sign of incoming water from the rock.  Nothing seems to be amiss.

We take the raw water line off clear back to the thru hull.  When Carl removes the bronze elbow he finds that it is completely crammed full of seaweed pods.  We flush the thru hull, clean and reconnect everything and the engine is much happier.  Having regained some of our wits we take off again.





We hail a sailboat approaching the cove to give them the lat and lon of the uncharted rock.  After getting that out of the way we chat for awhile, recalling that we have encountered each other off and on for a few years up here.  They are “Tumbleweed” a Kent Ranger 26 sailboat.

Then we are off to Santa Gertrudis to set up for rounding Estevan Point in the morning.  Thankfully all goes well for the rest of the day.

July 29th – August 1st Bunsbys to Rugged Point Not!


July 29th – August 1st Bunsbys to Rugged Point Not!

We take another 3 hour tour in our kayaks then head out towards Kyuquot (Ki-YU-kit) Sound.  Paying very close attention to the numerous green and red buoys marking the entrance to Walter’s Cove we are thankful for good descriptions in the guidebooks.  There are a few hairpin turns to make it in and we wonder how in the world the ferry and supply ship the Uchuck III makes it into the cove.  There is no anchoring here but there is a small community dock.  As we approach the dock, the skipper from the  sailboat Wind Gypsy waves us over with an offer to raft up to them.  We take advantage of this offer and safely tie up alongside, meeting Marty and Mae.  Thanking them we agree to meet over dinner to discuss when to untie and allow them off the dock. 




Walter’s Cove is another great example of a small community making it work along these remote and rugged waterways.  There is a bustling recreational fisheries, very nice fishing lodge, well stocked general store and a delightful cafe.  Across the bay there is the First Nations community of the Kyuquot Band. There are small b and b’s and other places for passengers of the Uchuck III to stay when the ship overnights in the tiny cove.  The walk to the café, “Java the Hut,” is along the water front passing in front of small homes.  Friendly conversations back and forth from table to table in the café, Canadians (Wind Gypsy), Americans (us), Kyuquot Nations (beside us) and some of the commercial fishermen make for an interesting meal.  Good food and excellent service just add to the enjoyment.

Over dinner we have determined that we too will head back out and anchor so we untie from Wind Gypsy, wind out way back out through the maze of buoys and head out into Barter Cove.  Wind Gypsy is on their way to the Wooden Boat show in Port Townsend.  Perhaps we will see them again along the way.

We move further up into Kyuquot Sound and the tiny anchorage known locally as “Blue Lips.”  A very narrow entrance leads to a nice snug, private anchorage with no wind, making it a perfect place for showers in the cockpit. 

July 31st dawns and I attempt, with so-so success to bake bread sticks, a treat for Carl in celebration of his 7 year mark as a stroke survivor.  What a place to celebrate!  The oven is still temperamental but the bread sticks come out OK. 

Overnight Carl’s ‘crabhawk,’ a small net that he fishes for crabs with has become wrapped around the anchor chain.  As he pulls the anchor he finds that, thankfully, it only had one wrap and it comes off just fine.  Anchors aweigh and off to Rugged Point we go.  The plan is to spend a night or two anchored at Rugged Point and hike the trails in the park. 

We have not been able to receive the VHF weather report in our tiny hidey-hole.  Once we are nearly to Rugged Point we finally pick up a weather channel.  Geographically we are on the cusp of the line between Vancouver Island North and Vancouver Island South weather reports.  Weather report for the South Island area is a SE winds gale warning in effect.  Weather for our current location (North Island) is for high northwest winds.  Combine these with the pouring down rain we decide that Rugged Point is best left for another trip and we head south to a known, safe from all winds anchorage, Queen Cove, just inside Esperanza Inlet.

The winds are predicted for late tonight and today’s passage is quite calm.  This allows us to set up for halibut fishing.  We try our luck but do not land any halibut.  Instead we come up with an excellent Cabezon, and one each of Copper and China rockfish.  Then we motor on into Queen Cove and set up for another rainy day, secure from the high winds from all corners.

From the cockpit we see a Bald eagle swoop in and grab one of the fish carcasses from Carl’s fish cleaning.  We watch the eagle circle the anchorage and head back to a tree just behind us.  As he gets closer we hear the screeching of eaglets in a tree nearby.  Sure enough the eagle lands and we realize we have anchored near an active eagle nest.  What a treat!  We thought it was too late in the season for eagles to be on their nests but we have noticed a couple of other pair hanging close to nests over the last couple of weeks.




The next morning while enjoying our coffee in the cockpit we look out through the pouring rain and Carl spots a bear.  We watch as she and her two small cubs traverse the beach behind us.  This goes on for quite some time.  She gets a whiff of us and sends her cubs off to scurry up a tree.  We can see them climbing and having fun going up and down.  Their tree is just to the left of the eagle tree.  The mama bear continues to forage for quite a while, turning over rocks like they were small pebbles.  She forages on salal berries and eventually brings her cubs back down the tree.



Meanwhile the Bald eagle has come into the nest again giving us a better idea of its location.  Sure enough, Carl finds two heads with dark bodies that blend in so well with the tree trunks that you would not know they were there.  We happily watch bears, eagles and divers who have come in beside us and are running some kind of underwater transect.  They set up a couple of places in the cove and then depart, as do we.  Next stop Zeballos as we have decided to take the inside calm route to Nootka Sound instead of foraying out into the high winds.